Skin Types Q&A

:OILY SKIN ACNE IMPURE SKIN:

Our favorate skin to work on due to its complexity, veriations and level of difficulty!

Oily skin results from the overproduction of sebum by the sebaceous glands of the skin. It is not really known why one person's skin produces more oil than another's. Some experts believe that genetics and adolescent hormonal changes are key factors. But regardless of key factors, it is a common condition that can result in problematic skin. Oily skin is more prone to comedones, enlarged pores and acne lesions. In addition, many people are uncomfortable with the shiny appearance and slippery surface caused by excessive oil production.

Oily skin requires the use of stripping cleansers that are capable of dissolving surface lipids. it can benefit from a home care program that includes alcohol-based lotions, clay-type masks, and the use of alpha-hydroxy and beta acids. However, keep in mind that overuse of some stripping agents, such as scrubs, will actually stimulate oil production and alcohol , clays my overdry the skin. Age is not necessarily a factor in oily skin. We here at Euphoria SkinCare STUDIO have had clients with oily skin as young as 10 years and as old as 70 years of age. It is very possible for someone to have oily and dry skin; there can be an overproduction of oil and an absence of moisture.

ACNE SKIN

This is an important skin condition because about 90% of Americans at one point or another have acne. It is important to know exactly what it is: the various types of acne, factors that affect it, and treatments that help control it.

WHAT IS ACNE?

The stratum corneum is constantly shedding and being replaced by new cells. When this natural exfoliation slows down, a gradual buildup forms and retention hyperkeratosis occurs. Dead skin cells stick to the surface and begin lining the inside walls of the follicles. Sebum acts as a clogging agent by causing dead skin cells to stick together and to the walls of the follicles. The following inflammatory and noninflammatory lesions result:

MICROCOMEDONES. When cells build up inside the follicle wall, a small (not readily visible) impaaction is formed, which is called a microcomedone. Microcomedones are mixtures of dead cells, bacteria, fatty acids from excess sebum, and other cellular debris. As they grow in size, they become visible closed or open comedos.

CLOSED COMEDO (WHITEHEAD). As the cellular debris collects, the follicle wall stretches to contain the contents of the impaction, but the follicle opening does not.

OPEN COMEDO (BLACKHEAD). The pore is dialated by the impacted mass, allowing the debris to push toward the surface opening. Oxygen is what causes the darkening of the sebum that is exposed.

PAPULE. A papule is a closed comedo that does not become a blackhead but instead becomes large enough to break the follicle sac. Oncel this happens, the immune system sens white blood cells into the area, depositing digestive enzymes to dissolve the impaction. Inflammation occurs and painful, elevate, red lesion that does not form pus results.

PUSTULE. When a papule is not dissolved by enzymes, white blood cells continue to engulf the break in the follicle wall, forming pus. As the pus builds up, white blood cells migrate to the surface, bringing impacted material with them and dilating the opening to form a pustule. Pustule formation alleviates pressure on the nerve ending and pain is subdued.

NODULE. When the break in the follicle is near the bottom, a nodule forms. A nodule is a sore red lesion that is larger, deeper, and firmer than a papule.

CYST. When there is intense inflammation in a follicle, thousands of white blood cells invade the site and create a large, soft, pus-filled lesion resembling a boil. Any lesion larger than one centimeter is considered a cyst.

TYPES OF ACNE

ACNE VULGARIS. This occurs primarily in adolescents and involves a variety of lesions such as comedones, papules, pustules, nodules, cysts, and sequelae (pitted or hypertrophic scars).

ACNE COSMETICA. This acne is triggered by topical pore-clogging substances. It usually consists of noninflammatory lesions.

ACNE MECHANICA. This is acne that is caused by friction or pressure. Rubbing or manipulation of microdomedones may cause a rupture of the follicle on acne-prone skins.

ACNE ROSACEA. This is an adult acne that is more predominant in women than men. (An extreme state, bulbous hypertrophy of the nose, is more predominant in men.) It is usually seen in people with northern European heritage, and is recognized by erythema woth telangiectasia. Large and painful papules and pustules form in the center of the face, primarily on the cheeks and chin (typically where vessels dilate).

Excessive alcohol, hot spicy drinks and foods, caffeine, tobacco, extreme weather conditions (sun, wind, heat, cold), hot or cold showers, sauna, and strenous exercise exacerbate rosacea.

ACNE IS CLASSIFIED IN GRADES:

*Grade 1-Comedonal acne

*Grade 2-Comedones and some pustules

*Grade 3-Comedones, inflamed pustules, and an occasional cyst

*Grade 4-Large pustules, inflamed cysts, and nodules

FACTORS AFFECTING ACNE

Stress. This is a critical factor affecting acne. Flare-ups occur between 14 days to a month after the stress response.

NUTRITION. There is no proven correlation between acne and the foods we eat. However, alcohol, caffeine, and foods with iodides (salts, processed foods, fast foods, excessive dairy products, soy sauce, MSG) can trigger existing acne conditions.

HORMONES. An increase in progesterone aggravates acne conditions in genetically vulnerable women. Increased estrogen generally relieves acne, which is why physicians often prescribe birth control pills.

PICKING. Picking, improper squeezing, and inept extraction rupture the follicle sac.

DRYING. Topical agent overuse can cause sebaceous glands to produce more oil.

SKIN IRRITANTS. Detergents, fabric softeners, shampoos, hairsprays, and conditioners can contribute to an existing acne condition. Thus, it is important to have clients rinse laundry thoroughly, replace pillowcases daily, and use clean washcloths.

COSMETICS. Fragrances, dyes, and preservatives irritate sensitive and acne-prone skins.

Euphoria's ACNE TREATMENTS

MEDICAL

Medical treatment of acne includes the use of antibiotics (Tetracycline, Minocin, Erythromycin), Accutane, and Retin-A. Antibiotics are sometimes ineffective because they do not necessarily affect the pores of the skin. you may also experience unwanted side effects with antibiotic use, such as increased sun sensitivity, yeast infections, and digestive disorders.

Accutane is a Vitamin A derivative that is an extremely potent systemic drug. It shuts down the sebaceous activity of the entire body. It does not work for all types of acne, and it is not uncommon for acne to return less than a year following treatment. Side effects include severe birth defects, diabetes, kidney malfunction, severe dry and peeling skin, gum inflammation, bleeding, and more.

Retin-A is a Vitamin A derivative also known as tretinoin or retinoic acid. It is a topical treatment available in various strengths in liquid, gel, or cream formulas. The liquid and gel are helpful with noninflammatory acne but will not kill bacteria. Comedogenic crem versions contain isopropyl myristate and stearic acid, wich can aggravate acne conditions.

AESTHETIC

The aesthetician's goal is to eliminate dead skin cell buildup with some form of exfoliation, to control and eliminate bacteria decrease inflammation, reduce sebaceous activity, and extract lesions. The following are some handy and effective aesthetic tools that can help you achieve this goal.

TO ELIMINATE BUILDUP

* Ensymes are complex organic proteins that accelerate chemical reactions. When applied to the skin, they exfoliate by digesting stratum corneum cells. There are a variety of safe and effective enzymes, including the papaya enzyme, citrus enzyme, vegetable enzyme, pancreatic enzyme, bacillus enzyme, and milk enzyme (lactose). Use of the appropriate enzyme can be an effective and gentle way to approach exfoliation in the treatment of acne.

:DRY SKIN:

Dry skin has an absence of moisture, and also may lack adequate sebum/oil production, but not always. Dry skin conditions range from a minimal lack of moisture to eczema, psoriasis, and "alligator" skin. Dry skin ages faster, looses elasticity, becomes dull in appearance, and is more prone to wrinkles and furrows. As with all sin conditions, there are intrinsic and extrinsic causes.

Instrinsic causes of dry skin include genetic factors, medications, antihistamines and antibiotics, illness, and aging. Thinner skins and fair complexions are more prone to dehydration. It is said when we are born, we are composed of 90% water, and that as we age this becomes less. So much so that by the time we are in our golden years we are about 10% water. One of the first places our tissues lose water is the skin.

A healthy, beautiful skin is a moist skin. Think about an animal's hide. It is supple until the moisture is removed, and then you have leather!

A note on sleeping: avoid sleeping facedown. Dry skin is less elastic, and thus is more prone to the formation of wrinkles. Over time, with adequate care, problems resulting from dry skin can be reversed by:

:HYPERPIGMENTED SKIN:

Hyperpigmentation is not a skin type, but because it is a common condition on facial skin and because it responds well to peels and lightening treatments, we have decided to dedicate a section to it. Hyperpigmentation is a condition that can happen to all skin types, from dry to oily. It is excessive stimulation of melanin in the skin that results in an uneven, darkened skin tone.

THERE ARE APPROXIMATELY 2000 MELANOCYTES PER MILLIMETER OF SKIN

Ethinic skin is not darker because it halds more melanocytes (which produce the melanin that creates pigment). There is the same amount of melanocytes present in white and dark skin. The diffenence is that in darker skin, the cells are larger, not more numerous. This produces more pigment.

Excessive production of melanin can be brought on by systemic and extrinsic causes. And even in systemic situations, it can be made worse by extrinsic causes. Skins that have more pigment seem to be more prone to hyperpigmentation, but with the introduction of chemicals, medications, and overexposure to sun, anyone cna be susceptible.

Systmic causes include pregnancy, hormoal changes, birth control pills, estrogen intake, and the use of antibiotics. Acne trauma and inflammation can result in hyperpigmentations, especially if the client has darker skin and if lesions are picked and not allowed to heal naturally.

The main extrinisc cause is the sun! Sun exposure can cause hyperpigmentation on its own or in combination with other agents. For example, perfume on a sun-exposed neck may result in hyperpigmentation. And in all causes of hyperpigmentation, the sun always makes it worse.

TYPES OF PIGMENT CHANGES

Hyperpigmentation - Darkened pigment, Hypopigmentation - No melanin (and abscense of color), Demarcation - Uneven pigmentation from procedures, picking, or scratching.

When examining the skin, the professional will observe three types of hyperpigmentation:

Epidermal or surface is light brown and not quite as dense. Dermal is deeper brown or ashen gray and appears more solid. A mixture of both levels is usually dark brown.

It is important for you the consumer to know chemical peels, laser and mechanical peels, may induce hyperpigmentation, referred to as PIH. Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation is over-stimulated melanocytes that results in increased melanin. And you also need to remember to protect your self agenst over exposer to sun and to always use sunblock. Sun exposure can exacerbate the problem; a high SPF sunblock is an essential factor in effectively controlling hyperpigmentation.

This conditon is normally treated with melanin suppressants such as hydroquinone, natural plant-based lighteners, and AHAs. It can also be treated with microdermabrasion and other peeling methods.

Treatment results vary greatly depending of whether dicoloration is at a cellular or superfial level. Through a series of treatments there can be significant change and correction. Sometimes, if total evenness of color has not been achieved, topical camouflages may be used.

:ROSACEA :

WHAT IS ROSACEA?

Rosacea is a chronic and progressive disorder that may first be noticed as redness on the cheeks, nose, chin, or forehead that comes and goes. A susceptibility to rosacea, called prerosacea, can be detected in teens or early 20's. Rosacea is even reported in children.

According to medical research the cause - poor circulation, sluggish lymph, genetic predisposition, digestive disorders, bacteria and mites attached to cells.

FIRST STAGE OF ROSACEA

Frequent blushes or flushes, strong family history of rosacea & facial skin that becomes irritated by topical creams, lotions, acnti-acne medications, and over the counter sunscreens and skin products with orritating ingredients.

SECOND STAGE OF ROSACEA

Redness tends to become ruddier and more permanent. Dilated blood vessels (telangiectasia) may appear and papules and pustules begin to form.

Certain areas of the skin may take on a "baggy" appearance from swelling.

THIRD STAGE OF ROSACEA

A Deep persistent redness and many dilated veins, especially around the nose. An early sign of the hird stage is fibroplasia (growth of excess tissue), which can produce enlarged pores.

At its worst, especially in men, the nose may grow swollen and bumpy from excess tissue, a condition called Rhinophyma (W C. Fields with the bulbous nose).

When the entire face is involved swelling may produce painful nodules and fibroplasia, lion-like facial features occur.

:SENSITIVE SKIN:

The term sensitive in relation to skin type is often overused or misunderstood. The skin is a reactive mechanism and does respond to internal and external factors-certain individuals are more sensitive or reactive to enviroment, foods, medications, and certainly cosmetics.

It has been our observation over many years of working with skin, and being an individual who is also reative to substances/ that most sensitive sins are reacting to inferior products or products that contain dyes, preservatives, and perfumes. These are the three skin antagonizers and often times when eliminated the skin begins to calm down and show less irritation.

A truly sensitive skin is one that reddens and develops rash easily. Even though all skins react of outside influences such as pollution, smoking, sun and wind, sensitive skins overreact. Sensitive skin tends to be thinner than average and more prone to broken capillaries (telangiectasia).

The approach for treating this type of skin is slightly diffenent. It is our experience that sensitive skins do not tolerate alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) as well as they tolerate beta acids and retinol. Therefore we begin treatments with a less aggressive approach by using lower-strength AHAs in combination with enzymes instead of higher-strength AHAs. The lower-strenght AHAs melt down the stratum corneum, allowing regeneration to begin, and then we like to continue this process with the better-tolerated retinols and beta caid peels.

A series of progressive treatments is a good way to strenghten skin integrity and desensitize skin, bringing it to a state of less reactivity.

It is also important to understand that chemical peels may be one of the best supports for what is termed a "sensitive" skin and as new, healthy cells surface the skin becomes less irritated and reactive, specifically if the daily regimen is adjusted to what their skin likes.

There are many excellent skin rejuvenation choices for reactive skin types that will support and enhance the health and appearance of the skin for a lifetime.